Call or Text: (360) 949-2330
Call or Text: (360) 949-2330
No hot water? We will tell you honestly whether it can be repaired, or whether you are better off replacing it. Free estimates on all jobs.
Licensed, Bonded and Insured · WA License JEREMPL810QE · Owner Operated · Free Estimates on All Jobs
When a water heater fails, it rarely does it at a convenient time. You find out in the shower, or you find out because there is water across the utility room floor. Either way you need someone who will look at it, tell you what is actually wrong, and give you a straight answer about what it costs to put right.
Jeremy’s Plumbing is owner operated. Jeremy does the diagnosis himself, and you deal with the same person from the first call to the finished job. We would rather tell you a repair is not worth doing than sell you one that is not.
On a gas unit this is usually the pilot, thermocouple or gas control valve. On electric it is normally a failed element or thermostat. Both are repairs, not replacements.
Often a failed lower heating element, a broken dip tube, or sediment taking up space in the tank.
Usually a spent anode rod. Caught early this is inexpensive. Left alone the tank corrodes from the inside.
Sediment build-up on the bottom of the tank. A flush usually solves it and the unit runs more efficiently after.
If the leak is a fitting or valve, it is repairable. If the tank itself has gone, no repair will save it.
Thermocouple, gas valve, or a venting problem. All repairable.
Usually worth repairing: the unit is under about 8 years old, the tank is sound, and the fault is a component. Thermostat, heating element, thermocouple, gas valve, anode rod, dip tube or a leaking fitting.
Usually worth replacing: the tank itself is leaking, the unit is past roughly 10 to 12 years, or the repair cost is approaching a meaningful share of a new unit. A tank that has rusted through cannot be repaired.
We tell you which one you are in before the work starts, not after.
Burner, pilot, thermocouple, gas valve and venting.
Upper and lower elements, thermostats, high-limit reset.
Descaling, error codes, flow sensors, ignition and venting.
Compressor, fan, condensate drainage and control board.
Tell us what the unit is doing. Often we can narrow it down before we arrive.
A clear explanation of what failed and why.
Repair or replace, with the reasoning, before any work starts.
Same visit wherever the parts allow.
Hot water back, and your utility room the way we found it.
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How long does a water heater last?
A conventional tank unit typically lasts 8 to 12 years. Tankless units often run longer with regular descaling. Past about 10 years we will usually talk to you about replacement rather than a repair that buys a few months.
My water heater is leaking. Can it be repaired?
It depends where the leak is. Fittings, valves and drain valves are usually repairable. A leak from the tank body itself is not: the tank has corroded through and needs replacing.
Why do I have no hot water?
On gas, usually the pilot, thermocouple or gas control valve. On electric, usually a failed element or thermostat. All of those are repairs rather than replacements.
Why is my hot water rusty?
Usually a spent anode rod, the sacrificial part that protects the tank from corrosion. Replacing it early is inexpensive and extends the life of the heater.
What is that rumbling noise from the tank?
Sediment on the bottom of the tank heating and moving. A flush usually solves it.
Do you charge for an estimate?
No. We give free estimates on all jobs.
Do you repair tankless water heaters?
Yes, including descaling, error codes, flow sensors, ignition and venting faults.
Free estimates on all jobs. Licensed, bonded and insured. You deal with Jeremy, start to finish.
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